Do It Yourself

Old Lawn - Strip old grass and thatch layer to bare soil or completely destroy old lawn with rototiller. Then grade same as above for new lawn.

New Lawn - Grade to slope away from home, fill in all depressions, so no water lays. Leave final grade 1" below sidewalks and curbs. Add starter fertilizer 7-14-7, 50 lbs per 5000 sq.ft. Our 7-14-7 has lime included in the bag. Additional lime may be required after reviewing soil test results. Apply on soil and rake in to the top 1/4 inch of soil.

Begin installing turf along the longest straight line, such as the driveway or sidewalk. Butt and push edges against each other tightly, without stretching. Avoid gaps or overlaps. Stagger the joints in each row in a brick-like fashion, using a large sharp knife to trim corners, etc. Avoid leaving small strips at outer edges as they will not retain moisture. On slopes, place the turf pieces across the slope.

After installing the turf, roll the entire area to improve turf soil contact and remove air pockets. Step 4 - Water thoroughly as soon as a sizable area is sodded. Give your new lawn 1 inch of water within the 1/2 hour of installation. Water 1/2" daily , or more often, keeping turf moist until firmly rooted (about 2 weeks). Then less frequent and deeper watering should begin.

Weather conditions will dictate the amount and frequency of watering. Be certain that your new lawn has enough moisture to survive hot, dry, or windy periods. Water areas near building more often where reflected heat dries the turf.

During the first three weeks, avoid heavy or concentrated use of your new lawn. This gives the roots an opportunity to firmly knit with the soil, and insures that the turf will remain smooth. Make sure to keep an eye out for under or over watering, adjustments may be needed due to shade, sprinkler patterns or weather. If you see an issue, call us for some pointer before it really bad, a minor adjustments could save your hard work.